Tuesday, 27 June 2017

Barrio Entrambasaguas

This is the oldest part of Cangas del Narcea and is slowly being restored. The church was having the gutters repaired and was being repainted when we walked past. Other houses too had been repaired and repainted even in the last year, and the old mill had been partially re-roofed. The streets are cobbled and traffic is not allowed over the bridge. There is then a fairly steep climb up past other old buildings (many of which still need repair) into the centre of Cangas del Narcea itself.

Houses in Entrambasaguas

Capilla del Carmen

The bridge

Restored house
after the bridge

Cangas del Narcea

Having driven to Ponferrada over the Puerto del Rañadoiro we returned by the Puerto de Leitariegos to the Hotel Peñagrande just outside Cangas del Narcea.

From here it is possible to walk into Cangas itself along the Paseo de Vino which passes several small vineyards and is along the riverside. [Turn left out of the hotel and about 300mts along the road turn right, go over the bridge and then right along the path]

There are remains of two salmon leaps (estacadas) and the leats which served the mills, now ruins. At San Tiso (the half-way point) there is a wine museum (Museo de Vino) which is very interesting. Our first walk was before opening time but we returned next day to see the added attraction of traditional craft making. To reach the museum the path passes a metal works and the little chapel (where the basket maker was working) before turning left and then right to pass behind the museum (wood-turning). There are also a few small wine shops at this point. It then continues along the riverside into the outskirts of Cangas del Narcea at the Barrio Entrambasaguas, which needs a post of its own.

[If walking from Cangas the path starts by the church after the bridge - turn right after the church and then immediately left, then at the top of the short hill turn down the path through the wooden guard rails.]

Start of the
Paseo de vino

The footpath passes
the vineyards

Estacada de Fariños

The Museo de Vino

Craftsmen at work

Basket making and


Thursday, 22 June 2017


From Rengas we drove to Ponferrada . We parked near the bus station and had a very good dinner there before going on to our roadhouse accommodation ('Los Rosales') outside the city.

Next day we went back to the same parking and walked across Ponferrada to the Templars' Castle. This is very impressive and was the aim of our visit. We spent the whole morning here looking round the buildings including the oldest section. Here you can go up the spiral staircase up onto the ramparts. It is unusual in that it is 'left-handed' giving the advantage to left-handed defenders. Also of interest is the library with its Templar exhibition and ancient books.

For lunch we found a very good restaurant Meson Luisi, back over the bridge from the castle and left at the roundabout. One of the best meals of our travels this year. Then we walked back across Ponferrada keeping in the shade as it had turned very hot. We just made it back into 'Los Rosales' as heavy rain started!

The castle is built above the river, which forms part of its defences

Castle entrance

Castle walls

Inside the walls


Steps to the water gate

View from the highest part of the castle

The unusual left-handed spiral staircase

The oldest remaining part of the castle

Reconstructed C15th area with the library in the lower section

Sunday, 18 June 2017

Vega de Rengas

The area around Vega de Rengas is south of the Camino Primitivo near Cangas del Narcea. Our casa rural was up a narrow side road through Posada de Rengas.

We were told that there was a walk to the waterfall starting in Posada and eventually passing the back of the house. Unfortunately we were given the wrong directions out of the village so walked a different route. The views were good and there was a well defined track, which probably would have joined the right track at some point. However as we had left the car in the village we re-traced our steps for a good lunch in the cafe-bar.

Next day we visited the Muniellos Reserve where the massive oak forest is a protected area, with restricted access. There is a good walk to a viewing point which we took and which enabled us to see how far the forest extends. Also at week-ends the 'interpretation centre' is open with details of the vegetation and wildlife found in the forest.

Views above
Posada de Rengas

The Muniellos forest

Saturday, 17 June 2017

Spain May 2017 - Oviedo and Grado

From Poo, on the Camino del Norte, we drove down to stay at Grado, on the Camino Primitivo.

This enabled us to visit two churches, one with a Roman baths at the side.

The church of Santa Eulalia de Valduno (also spelt Valdeno) has the remains of the 'Termas Romana' (thermal baths) preserved just to the south and protected by a wire fence. The church is on the riverside, just off the Camino, after Primoño and before walkers reach Paladin.

Our other visit was to the church of San Julian de Prado in Oviedo. We caught the FEVE in Grado and walked out to the church, which is pre-Romanesque. The inside has most of its original painting so no photography is allowed. It is well worth a visit and is well signed in Oviedo, and within easy reach of the centre.

Returning to Grado for lunch we collected our car from the station and parked near the plaza. The new albergue was at the top of the road so we walked up to have a closer look.

The thermal baths

The church of San Julian

The albergue in Grado

Friday, 16 June 2017

Spain May 2017 - Poo to Celorio

Our hotel in Poo was on a back road, not far from either of the albergues and the Camino passed the end of the road. There is also a very good little shop in Poo (closed on Mondays) and a restaurant (also closed Monday). We had a wonderful meal in the restaurant at the weekend and were lucky to get a table.

Our second walk was from Poo again, taking the Camino to Celorio and then retracing our step back to the hotel. A warm sunny day with a gentle breeze. This is a very pretty section of the Camino as there are views of the sea and the mountains, the ruins on the headland and in Celorio itself a lovely little beach.

The Hotel Miramar in Poo

Poo from the Camino

Views along the track

Ruins of the fishermen's look-out

The beach at Celorio

Monday, 12 June 2017

Spain May 2017 - LLanes

From Suances we moved on to Poo (pronounced more like Poe than Pooh). Here we planned to walk two short sections of the Camino de Santiago.

The first was between LLanes and Poo so we started by walking the coast path from behind our hotel to Llanes. The path is well marked and on the outskirts of Llanes itself turns along a road and then up onto the cliff top walk at the look-out point. There is then a good walk along this 'paseo', originally part of the towns sea defences against the corsairs, until the town is accessed via steps down past the beach. The church has a cross carved in the stonework by the door. The palacio is still in a sad state of disrepair with all restoration work stopped for several years now. The old town walls are in good repair and were part of the defences of the town.

After lunch we followed the Camino signs taking the inland route back to Poo, leading into the village over the FEVE line and the road.

Paseo from the
look-out point

Church doorway


Town walls

Friday, 9 June 2017

Spain May 2017 - Peña Tu

The idol of Peña Tu is near Puertas de Vidiago, Llanes and is on a hill top reached by a good and well marked track. An ancient place of worship, dating from the Bronze Age, it still has its original paintings due to the protection of the overhanging top section. The curator waits in the car park, at opening times, to see who starts the climb and then takes his truck up to meet visitors and explain the paintings.

The idol of Pena Tu

The view from behind
the idol

The painted 'child in a cradle' and dagger

Diagram of the paintings and marks

More at the Spanish

wikipedia site

Tuesday, 6 June 2017

Spain May 2017 - Suances

Our latest walks in Spain started in Suances with a walk on part of the Camino de Santiago and a walk out to the headland at Suances itself.

The Camino del Norte passes through Carborredondo passing the church of San Bartolome. There is a good cafe-bar with restaurant, on the left as you walk up the hill through the village, and a little further on the pilgrim refuge (albergue), also on the left.

There is a good walk from Suances out to the headland. Staying at the Hotel Albatross on the outskirts we simply followed the road uphill to pick up the road and then the path and track out to the headland. If starting from town follow the signs to the lighthouse (faro). The view was good from the cliff top, with wild flowers on the headland itself. To return to town, bya slightly different route, follow the well defined way downhill and then rejoin the road.

The church at Carborredondo

The headland at Suances

Saturday, 25 February 2017

Vilar de Donas

Near to Palas de Rei, on the Camino Francés, is the ancient church of Vilar de Donas. It has wonderful wall paintings including ladies in butterfly head-dresses.

There is a page on 'tripwolf' with some history and also extra photos.